put into action
Order of the Federal
technical
regulation and metrology
INTERSTATE STANDARD
FABRICS LINEN AND HALF-LINEN
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Colored-yarn and acidified linen and semilinen fabrics.
General specifications
GOST 11039-2015
ISS 59.080.30
Introduction date
Foreword
The goals, basic principles and basic procedure for carrying out work on interstate standardization are established in GOST 1.0-92 "Interstate standardization system. Basic provisions" and GOST 1.2-2009 "Interstate standardization system. Interstate standards, rules and recommendations for interstate standardization. Rules for the development, adoption , applying, updating and canceling"
About the standard
1 DEVELOPED by the Technical Committee for Standardization TC 412 "Textile", Open joint stock company"All-Russian Research Institute of Certification" (JSC "VNIIS"), Open Joint Stock Company "Central Research Institute integrated automation light industry"(JSC "TSNIILKA")
2 INTRODUCED by the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology (Rosstandart)
3 ADOPTED by the Interstate Council for Standardization, Metrology and Certification (Minutes of June 19, 2015 N 47)
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Short name of the country according to MK (ISO 3166) 004-97 |
Country code according to MK (ISO 3166) 004-97 |
Abbreviated name of the national standards body |
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Azerbaijan |
Azstandard |
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Ministry of Economy of the Republic of Armenia |
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Belarus |
State Standard of the Republic of Belarus |
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Kazakhstan |
State Standard of the Republic of Kazakhstan |
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Kyrgyzstan |
Kyrgyzstandart |
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Moldova-Standard |
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Rosstandart |
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Tajikistan |
Tajikstandart |
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Uzbekistan |
Uzstandard |
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Ministry of Economic Development of Ukraine |
4 Order federal agency on technical regulation and metrology of August 19, 2015 N 1179-st interstate standard GOST 11039-2015 was put into effect as a national standard Russian Federation from July 1, 2016
5 INSTEAD OF GOST 11039-84
Information about changes to this standard is published in the annual information index "National Standards", and the text of changes and amendments - in the monthly information index "National Standards". In case of revision (replacement) or cancellation of this standard, a corresponding notice will be published in the monthly information index "National Standards". Relevant information, notification and texts are also placed in information system common use- on the official website of the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology on the Internet
1 area of use
This standard applies to ready-made linen and semi-linen multi-colored and sour fabrics (hereinafter referred to as fabrics) intended for the manufacture of paths (floor), terraces, awnings, sun loungers, mattresses, covers, souvenir and other similar products.
2. Regulatory references
GOST ISO 14184-1-2014 Textile materials. Determination of formaldehyde content. Part 1. Free and hydrolyzed formaldehyde (water extraction method)
GOST ISO 14184-2-2014 Textile materials. Determination of formaldehyde content. Part 2: Released formaldehyde (steam adsorption method)
GOST 15.007-88 System for the development and production of products. light industry products. Key points
GOST 357-75 Pure linen, linen and semi-linen fabrics. Determination of grade
GOST 3811-72 (ISO 3932-76, ISO 3933-76, ISO 3801-77) Textile materials. Fabrics, non-woven fabrics and piece goods. Methods for determining linear dimensions, linear and surface densities
GOST 3812-72 Textile materials. Fabrics and handicrafts. Methods for determining the density of threads and bunches of pile
GOST 3813-72 (ISO 5081-77, ISO 5082-82) Textile materials. Fabrics and handicrafts. Methods for determining rupture characteristics in tension
GOST 3816-81 (ISO 811-81) Textile fabrics. Methods for determining hygroscopic and water-repellent properties
GOST 6904-83 Raw twisted cotton yarn for weaving. Specifications
GOST 7000-80 Textile materials. Packaging, marking, transportation and storage
GOST 9733.0-83 Textile materials. General requirements to test methods for color fastness to physical and chemical influences
GOST 9733.1-91 (ISO 105-B01-88) Textile materials. Methods for testing color fastness to light
GOST 9733.2-91 Textile materials. Weather fastness test method
GOST 9733.3-83 Textile materials. Test Method for Color Fastness to Light under Artificial Light (Xenon Lamp)
GOST 9733.4-83 Textile materials. Test Methods for Wash Fastness of Colors
GOST 9733.13-83 Textile materials. Methods for testing color fastness to organic solvents
GOST 9733.27-83 Textile materials. Test Methods for Color Fastness to Abrasion
GOST 10078-85 Yarn from bast fibers and from mixtures with chemical fibers. Are common specifications
GOST 10776-78 Linen and semi-linen fabrics with waterproof and biocidal impregnations. Norms of fixed connections and indicators of water extract
GOST 12453-77 Pure linen, linen and half-linen fabrics and piece goods. Primary packaging and labeling
GOST 14192-96 Marking of goods
GOST 17922-72 Textile fabrics and piece goods. Tearing Load Method
GOST 18976-73 Textile fabrics. Method for determining abrasion resistance
GOST 20566-75 Textile fabrics and piece goods. Acceptance rules and sampling method
GOST 21768-76 Military textiles and piece goods. Acceptance rules
GOST 24220-80 Furniture fabrics. General specifications
GOST 25617-83 Linen, semi-linen, cotton and mixed fabrics and products. Chemical test methods
GOST 30084-93 Textile materials. Primary marking
GOST 30157.0-95 Textile fabrics. Methods for determining dimensional change after wet treatments or dry cleaning. General provisions
GOST 30157.1-95 Textile fabrics. Methods for determining dimensional change after wet treatments and dry cleaning. Processing modes
Note - When using this standard, it is advisable to check the validity of reference standards in the public information system - on the official website of the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology on the Internet or according to the annual information index "National Standards", which was published as of January 1 of the current year, and on issues of the monthly information index "National Standards" for the current year. If the reference standard is replaced (modified), then when using this standard, you should be guided by the replacing (modified) standard. If the referenced document is canceled without replacement, the provision in which the link to it is given applies to the extent that this link is not affected.
3. Terms and definitions
In this standard, the following terms are used with their respective definitions:
3.1 terrace: A fenced open extension to a building in the form of a recreation area, located on the ground or above the ground floor, with or without a roof.
3.2 canopy
4. Classification, main parameters and dimensions
4.1 Linen and semi-linen multi-colored and sour fabrics must be produced in accordance with the requirements of this standard, technical documentation And technological modes approved in the prescribed manner.
4.2 The technical documentation for a specific type (article) of fabric must indicate: type and mass fraction raw materials used, width of fabric, surface density of fabric, linear density of yarn (threads), number of threads per 10 cm in warp and weft, type of weave, breaking and tearing loads, type of finishing used.
By agreement between the customer and the manufacturer, additional requirements for products that are not provided for by this standard may be established in the technical documentation.
4.3 Depending on the content of flax fiber, fabrics are divided into:
Linen, containing at least 92% flax fiber;
Semi-linen, containing at least 30% flax fiber.
4.4 The width of selvedge fabrics must correspond to an integer starting from 45 cm ending in zero or five.
4.4.1 Permissible minus deviations in the width of fabrics, cm, not more than:
1.0 - with a width of up to 70 cm inclusive;
1.5 - with a width of 70 to 100 cm inclusive;
2.0 - with a width of more than 100 to 150 cm inclusive;
2.5 - with a width of more than 150 cm.
Plus deviations in width are not limited.
The width of two edges should not exceed 2.0 cm; for fabrics made on shuttleless looms - 3.5 cm.
4.4.2 Permissible negative deviations in surface density should be no more than 7%, in the number of threads per 10 cm on the warp - no more than 2%, on the weft - no more than 3%.
Plus deviations in surface density and the number of threads per 10 cm are not limited.
5. General technical requirements
5.1 Characteristic
5.1.1 In terms of artistic and aesthetic indicators, fabrics must correspond to standard samples approved in accordance with GOST 15.007.
5.1.2 Linen and semi-linen multicolored and sour fabrics produce:
From pure linen, linen and linen yarn with chemical fibers - according to GOST 10078;
From yarn mixed from a mixture of cotton, linen and chemical fibers according to the regulatory documentation in force on the territory of the manufacturing state;
In combination with cotton yarn - according to GOST 6904, with other types of yarn - according to the regulatory documentation in force on the territory of the manufacturing state;
Plain, finely patterned jacquard weaves.
5.1.3 Fabrics are made harsh, sour, multicolored.
5.1.4 Fabrics may be cut or calendared or ironed.
5.1.5 In terms of physical and mechanical parameters, fabrics must comply with the standards specified in Table 2.
table 2
Physical and mechanical parameters of tissues
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Name of indicator |
Norm for fabrics |
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with a mass fraction of chemical fibers, up to 8% incl. |
with a mass fraction of chemical fibers, more than 8% incl. |
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Surface density of fabrics, g/m 2 , no more, for: | ||
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mattresses | ||
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awnings and sun loungers | ||
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cases and souvenirs | ||
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Breaking load of a strip of fabric measuring 50 x 200 mm, N (kgf), not less, for: | ||
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based on | ||
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mattresses: | ||
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based on | ||
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based on | ||
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awnings and sun loungers: | ||
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based on | ||
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covers and souvenirs: | ||
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based on | ||
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Tearing load of fabrics, N (kgf), not less, for: | ||
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based on | ||
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awnings and sun loungers: | ||
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based on | ||
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Size change after fabric locking, %, no more, for: awnings with waterproof impregnation: | ||
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based on | ||
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awnings without impregnation: | ||
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based on | ||
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based on | ||
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Dimensional change after wet processing of fabrics, %, no more, for: covers and souvenirs: | ||
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based on | ||
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Water resistance according to the purse-penetrometer, Pa (mm water column), not less than: | ||
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fabrics for awnings with waterproof impregnation | ||
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It is allowed to produce fabrics with a different surface density, provided that the requirements for physical-mechanical and physical-chemical parameters are met. |
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5.1.6 The rate of abrasion resistance of fabrics for covers - according to GOST 24220.
5.1.7 Mass fraction of sizing in fabrics for tracks, covers and souvenir products should be no more than 3%.
5.1.8 Norms of fixed connections and indicators of water extraction of fabrics for awnings with waterproof impregnation - according to GOST 10776.
5.1.9 The color fastness of fabrics must meet the requirements specified in Table 3.
Table 3
Color fastness standards
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coloring tone |
Color fastness group |
Norms of color fastness, points, not less, to impact |
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light (for paths, sun loungers, awnings, terraces, covers) |
light and weather (for sun loungers, awnings, terraces) |
washing N 1 with soda (for mattresses and mattress covers, paths, deck chairs, awnings, terraces, covers) |
organic solvents (for paths, deck chairs, awnings, terraces, covers) |
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dry (for mattresses, mattress pads, walkways, deck chairs, covers) |
wet (for mattresses and mattress toppers, sun loungers) |
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Change in original color |
Change in original color |
Shading white material |
Shading white material |
Change in original color |
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Extra strong | ||||||||
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Extra strong | ||||||||
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Extra strong | ||||||||
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Notes 1 For fabrics of medium tone of an especially strong group of yellow color fastness and a light tone of an especially strong group of color fastness of yellow, scarlet, pink and violet colors, the indicator of color fastness to light, light and water is allowed 1 point lower. 2 For fabrics of the durable color fastness group of black, dark blue, dark brown colors, the color fastness index to dry and wet friction is allowed 1 point lower. |
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5.1.10 The presence of acid in acidified tissues is not allowed.
5.1.11 The grade of fabrics is determined according to GOST 357.
5.2 Marking
5.2.1 Marking of fabrics - in accordance with GOST 30084 with the following addition: on the label attached to pieces, rolls of finished fabrics, a "single mark of circulation on the market" must additionally be affixed.
5.2.2 Transport marking - in accordance with GOST 7000 with the application of handling signs in accordance with GOST 14192: "Keep away from moisture" and "Do not take with hooks."
5.3 Packaging
5.3.1 Primary packaging of fabrics - according to GOST 12453.
5.3.2 Packaging of fabrics for transportation and storage - according to GOST 7000.
6. Safety requirements
6.1 Raw materials used for the manufacture of fabrics must comply with the requirements of the state sanitary and epidemiological rules and regulations in force in the country.
6.3 The level of intensity of the electrostatic field on the surface of tissues should be no more than 15 kV/m.
6.4 Tissue toxicity index, determined in the aquatic environment, should be from 70% to 120% inclusive, in the air environment - from 80% to 120% inclusive.
6.5 The intensity of the smell of fabrics should not exceed 2 points in natural conditions.
7. Acceptance rules
7.1 Acceptance rules - according to GOST 20566 and GOST 21768 with the following addition: the manufacturer must carry out control of the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics for each article at the intervals indicated below:
Color fastness to light, light and weather, organic solvents - at least once a year;
Color fastness to washing, friction, tearing load and the indicators set out in 5.1.7, 5.1.8, 5.1.10 and 6.2 - at the stage of putting into production, and then - at least once a quarter;
Breaking load, surface density, change in linear dimensions after wet processing - at least once a month;
Acceptance in appearance and width of fabrics, water resistance - on each batch.
The indicator of the strength of the electrostatic field on the surface of the fabric, the toxicity index, the intensity of the odor is determined at the stage of development and production of products.
When you get unsatisfactory results periodic testing at least one indicator, it is tested until positive results are obtained on three batches in a row.
8. Test methods
8.1 Sampling - according to GOST 20566.
8.2 Determination of linear dimensions and surface density - according to GOST 3811.
8.3 Determination of the number of threads for the warp and weft per 10 cm - according to GOST 3812.
8.4 Determination of dimensional change after wet processing (lock, washing) - according to GOST 30157.0, GOST 30157.1.
8.5 Determination of breaking load - according to GOST 3813.
8.6 Determination of tearing load - according to GOST 17922.
8.7 Determination of resistance to abrasion - according to GOST 18976.
8.8 Determination of water resistance - according to GOST 3816.
8.9 Determination of color fastness - according to GOST 9733.0, GOST 9733.1, GOST 9733.2, GOST 9733.3, GOST 9733.4, GOST 9733.13, GOST 9733.27.
8.10 Determination of the toxicity index - according to regulatory documents operating in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.
8.11 Determination of smell - according to the regulatory documents in force in the territory of the state that adopted the standard.
8.12 Determination of the mass fraction of the sizing and the amount of free formaldehyde in tissues, the presence of acids in acidified tissues, the norms of fixed compounds and indicators of water extract, the mass fraction of chemical fibers - according to GOST 25617, GOST ISO 14184-1, GOST ISO 14184-2.
8.13 Determination of the level of electrostatic field strength on the surface - according to the regulatory documents in force on the territory of the state that adopted the standard.
9. Transportation and storage
9.1 Transportation and storage of fabrics - according to GOST 7000.
Textile materials. Preparation of samples of materials and clothing for testing to determine changes in dimensions
Linen and semi-linen coarse fabrics
This standard applies to severe coarse fabrics, equal and canvas, intended for technical purposes and special purposes.
The requirements of this standard are mandatory.
TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS
Fabrics shall be manufactured in accordance with the requirements of this International Standard. technological regulations approved in the prescribed manner.
CHARACTERISTICS
Fabrics should be produced from raw linen yarn, linen chemically treated, with the attachment of chemical fibers in accordance with GOST 10078, in combination with cotton yarn according to OST 17-96, as well as from other types of yarn produced according to regulatory and technical documentation. Fabrics according to physical and mechanical indicators must meet the requirements specified in the table.
| Fabric name | Width, cm | Nominal linear density of yarn, tex | Number of threads per 10 cm | Breaking load of a strip of fabric with a size of 50 × 200 mm, N (kgf) | Surface density, g/m² | |||
| basics | duck | based on | duck | basics | duck | |||
| Linen fabric for painting: | ||||||||
| № 1 | 210±3 | 56 l/m | 42 l/m | 208±6 | 190±6 | 735_ 78 (75_ 8) | 637_ 59 (65_ 6) | 190±13 |
| № 2 | 210±3 | 68 l/m | 68 × 3 l/m | 232±7 | 79±2 | 980_ 98 (100_ 10) | 1078_ 108 (110_ 11) | 310±22 |
| № 3 | 212±3 | 83 l/m | 83 l/m | 140±3 | 121±4 | 784_ 78 (80_ 8) | 686_ 69 (70_ 7) | 232±16 |
| Theatrical fabric | 210±3 | 83 rpm | 83 rpm | 150±4 | 140±4 | 637_ 59 (65_ 6) | 656,6_ 69 (67_ 7) | 250±18 |
| Fabric is harsh: | ||||||||
| № 1 | 90±1.5 | 200 rpm | 200 rpm | 108±2 | 114±3 | 1097,6_ 108 (112_ 11) | 1274_ 127 (130_ 13) | 465±33 |
| № 2 | 90±1.5 | 200 l/m | 200 l/m | 108±2 | 114±3 | 1470_ 147 (150_ 15) | 1666_ 167 (170_ 17) | 465±33 |
| № 3 | 160±2.5 | 105 o/m 33% PE | 105 o/m 33% PE | 122±2 | 118±3 | 686_ 69 (70_ 7) | 666_ 69 (68_ 7) | 272±19 |
| № 4 | 110±2 | 105 o/m 33% PE | 105 o/m 33% PE | 122±2 | 118±3 | 617_ 59 (63_ 6) | 608_ 59 (62_ 6) | 276±19 |
| 104±2 | 105 o/m 33% PE | 105 o/m 33% PE | 129±4 | 117±4 | 598_ 59 (61_ 6) | 510_ 49 (52_ 5) | 304±21 | |
| Semi-linen fabric harsh rough: | ||||||||
| № 1 | 90±1.5 | 84 cotton | 105 o/m 33% PE | 292±6 | 104±3 | 697_ 68 (71_ 7) | 353_ 39 (36_ 4) | 458±32 |
| № 2 | 100±1.5 | 84 cotton | 105 o/m 33% PE | 161±3 | 120±4 | 353_ 38 (36_ 4) | 402_ 39 (41_ 4) | 312±22 |
| № 3 | 106±2 | 60 cotton | 125 l/m 33% PE | 248±5 | 115±4 | 902_ 88 (92_ 9) | 805_ 78 (82_ 8) | 335±32 |
| Filter Cloth | 110±2 | 96x4 o/m 33% PE | 96x4 o/m 33% PE | 40±1 | 32±1 | 578_ 59 (59_ 6) | 460_ 49 (47_ 5) | 313±22 |
| № 1 | 166±2 | 280 o/s | 280 o/s | 47±1 | 24±1 | 412_ 39 (42_ 4) | 225_ 20 (23_ 2) | 209±15 |
| № 2 | 155±2 | 280 o/s | 280 o/s | 42±1 | 34±1 | 412_ 39 (42_ 4) | 333_ 29 (34_ 3) | 224±16 |
| № 1 | 166±2 | 280 o/s 280 angle/s | 280 angle/s | 46±1 | 24±1 | 363_ 39 (37_ 4) | 196_ 20 (20_ 2) | 204±14 |
| № 2 | 166±2 | 280 angle/s | 280 angle/s | 46±1 | 24±1 | 363_ 39 (37_ 4) | 196_ 20 (20_ 2) | 204±14 |
| № 3 | 156±2 | 280 angle/s | 280 angle/s | 46±1 | 24±1 | 363_ 39 (37_ 4) | 196_ 20 (20_ 2) | 204±14 |
| Fabric for carded ribbons: | ||||||||
| № 1 | 85±1 | 60 l/m | 29 cotton | 348±7 | 206±6 | 1695,4_ 167 (173_ 17) | 392_ 39 (40_ 4) | 294±21 |
| № 2 | 110±1 | 60 l/m | 29 cotton | 348±7 | 206±6 | 1695,4_ 167 (173_ 17) | 392_ 39 (40_ 4) | 294±21 |
| № 3 | 120±1 | 60 l/m | 29 cotton | 348±7 | 206±6 | 1695,4_ 167 (173_ 17) | 392_ 39 (40_ 4) | 294±21 |
| № 4 | 138±1 | 60 l/m | 29 cotton | 348±7 | 206±6 | 1695,4_ 167 (173_ 17) | 392_ 39 (40_ 4) | 294±21 |
| Raventuh linen severe: | ||||||||
| № 1 | 110±2 | 130 rpm | 200 rpm | 106±2 | 88±2 | 706_ 69 (72_ 7) | 706_ 69 (72_ 7) | 345±24 |
| № 2 | 110±2 | 200 o/m LJPE | 200 o/m LJPE | 91±2 | 84±2 | 588_ 59 (60_ 6) | 539_ 59 (55_ 6) | 380±28 |
| № 1 | 110±2 | 200 o/m 17% PE 17% Vis | 200 o/m 17% PE 17% Vis | 90±2 | 84±2 | 588_ 59 (60_ 6) | 539_ 59 (55_ 6) | 365±26 |
| № 2 | 110±2 | 84 cotton | 200 rpm | 157±4 | 88±2 | 637_ 59 (65_ 6) | 686_ 69 (70_ 7) | 335±23 |
| № 3 | 110±2 | 84 cotton | 200 o/m LJPE | 157±4 | 88±2 | 608_ 59 (62_ 6) | 568_ 59 (58_ 6) | 345±24 |
| № 4 | 110±2 | 84 cotton | 200 o/m 17% PE | 157±4 | 84±2 | 608_ 59 (62_ 6) | 568_ 59 (58_ 6) | 315±22 |
| Raventukh linen semi-white | 150±2 | 96 rpm | 96 rpm | 136±3 | 110±3 | 784_ 78 (80_ 8) | 598_ 59 (61_ 6) | 269±19 |
| Canvas linen semi-white | 84±1.5 | 38 l/m | 38 l/m | 212±4 | 208±6 | 490_ 49 (50_ 5) | 490_ 49 (50_ 5) | 150±11 |
1. Abbreviated letter designations of yarn: o / m - wet spinning; o / s - tow dry spinning; l/m - wet-spinning linen; y/s - dry-spinning carbon monoxide; cotton - cotton; LJPE - flax jute polyester; PE - polyester fiber.
2. For harsh fabrics No. 1 and 2, intended for the manufacture of rubberized sleeves, the width tolerance is set to no more than ± 1 cm;
3. It is allowed to produce equal widths: 70 ± 1; 90±1.5; 133±2 cm.
4. It is allowed to reduce the breaking load on the skin of fabrics for carded tapes using cotton yarn produced on machines of the BD type, up to 343_ 39 N (35_ 4 kgf), while maintaining all other physical and mechanical indicators.
5. The article numbers corresponding to the name of the fabrics are given in the appendix.
Fabrics should be produced by weaving twill equilateral two-shaft (linen); canvas - translucent weave.
Fabrics must be cut and calendared. Frame fabrics are not sheared or calendered. Fabrics for carded ribbons are not sheared. Canvas must be finished.
In linen fabrics for painting, theatrical fabric, in gray fabrics No. 1 and 2, in gray fabric No. 3, intended for painting, and canvas, the presence of chlorine, acids and alkalis is not allowed.
In fabrics for carded ribbons, the mass fraction of residual starch should be no more than 1%.
In the yarn for the production of fabrics for painting and theatrical fabrics, the presence of chemical fibers is not allowed. In yarn for the production of fabrics for carded tapes, the amount of chemical fibers should not exceed 8%.
The capillarity of linen fabrics for painting, theatrical fabrics and gray fabric No. 3, intended for painting, should be no more than 30 mm.
Indicators of water extract of severe canned fabrics - according to GOST 10776.
In severe canned fabrics with an investment of polyester fiber up to 35%, the mass fraction of fixed compounds from the absolutely dry mass of the fabric should be at least,%: copper - 0.3; chromium oxide - 0.13.
The grade of fabrics is determined according to GOST 357 with the following changes: in gray fabrics No. 1 and 2 used for the manufacture of rubberized sleeves, the following local defects are not allowed appearance:
the edge is tightened, wavy, bent;
are close in two strands or more;
undercuts with a density rarefaction of more than 10% per 1 cm;
tissue skew more than 2.5%;
dips in 1-2 threads along the length of the fabric over 1 cm;
in fabrics for painting, in theatrical fabric and in the harsh fabric No. 3, intended for painting, a sharp difference in hue is not allowed.
The warp and weft elongation at rupture of fabrics for carded ribbons should not exceed 10%.
The thickness of fabrics for carded ribbons should be between 0.4 and 0.5 mm.
The change in the size of the fabric after the lock should not be more than,%:
3 on the warp and 6 on the weft - for theatrical fabrics;
7 warp and 3.5 weft - for fabrics for painting.
The length of a piece, the number of cuts in a piece and the minimum length of a cut must comply with the requirements of GOST 12453 with the following changes:
the length of the piece for carded ribbons should be:
No. 1 - (86±0.5) m, as agreed between the supplier and the consumer - (70±0.5) m;
No. 2, 3, 4 - (70±0.5) m;
in gray fabrics No. 1 and 2 used for the manufacture of rubberized sleeves, the minimum cut length and the number of cuts in a piece are established by agreement between the supplier and the consumer, while the minimum cut length must be at least 7 m.
In appearance, the fabrics must correspond to the samples approved in the prescribed manner.
APPENDIX (reference)
NAME OF FABRICS ACCORDING TO GOST 11040 - THE CORRESPONDING ARTICLES ACCORDING TO THE PRICE LIST No. 43-08 (ed. 1982) AND OKP CODES
| Fabric name | vendor code | OKP code |
| Linen fabric for painting: | ||
| № 1 | 09131 | 83 3851 3010 06 |
| № 2 | 09132 | 83 3851 3011 05 |
| № 3 | 09173 | 83 3851 3048 03 |
| Theatrical fabric | 09154 | 83 3851 3032 00 |
| Fabric is harsh: | ||
| № 1 | 09106 | 83 3851 3002 06 |
| № 2 | 09152 | 83 3851 3030 02 |
| № 3 | 09164 | 83 3851 8001 09 |
| № 4 | 09176 | 83 3851 8010 05 |
| The fabric is severe canned | 09176 | 83 3851 8010 05 |
| The fabric is harsh semi-linen: | ||
| № 1 | 09227 | 83 3851 8011 02 |
| № 2 | 09228 | 83 3851 8012 05 |
| № 3 | 09222 | 83 3851 8007 07 |
| Filter Cloth | 09172 | 83 3851 8006 04 |
| Frame fabric for needle-punched fabrics: | ||
| № 1 | 09161 | 83 3851 3039 04 |
| № 2 | 09163 | 83 3851 3041 10 |
| Frame fabric for stitched and needle-punched fabrics: | ||
| № 1 | 09168 | 83 3851 3049 02 |
| № 2 | 09175 | 83 3851 3052 07 |
| № 3 | 09177 | 83 3851 3053 06 |
| Fabric for carded ribbons: | ||
| № 1 | 09211 | 83 3851 1001 04 |
| № 2 | 09212 | 83 3851 1002 03 |
| № 3 | 09213 | 83 3851 1003 02 |
| № 4 | 09214 | 83 3851 1004 01 |
| Raventuh linen severe: | ||
| № 1 | 13109 | 83 3841 3005 09 |
| № 2 | 13110 | 83 3841 8002 00 |
| Raventuh semi-linen severe: | ||
| № 1 | 13111 | 83 3841 8005 00 |
| № 2 | 13203 | 83 3841 1003 08 |
| № 3 | 13204 | 83 3841 6001 01 |
| № 4 | 13205 | 83 3841 1006 05 |
| Raventukh linen semi-white | 13108 | 83 3849 3003 04 |
| Canvas linen semi-white | 06133 | 83 3169 3001 10 |
If you want to look stylish and sophisticated and want to fill your life with natural, environmentally friendly materials, you will certainly come in handy. This material is applied when sewing summer and home clothes, all kinds of textiles, curtains, curtains and bedspreads, things for giving and relaxing, bags, rugs and other useful things. The production of linen fabric came to us from the time of ancient ancestors. To date, technologies and methods for processing fibers have been significantly improved, thanks to which linen fabric has become more durable, elastic, soft and thin.
The history of the appearance of linen fabric
The production of flax was known in ancient Rome, in Egypt and Scandinavia, among the ancient Gauls and Etruscans. In Rus', also from time immemorial, they began to produce linen fabric. In every household there were spinning devices and primitive looms.
During the reign of Peter the Great, the volume of flax cultivation increased, and the first manufactories for the production and processing of flax appeared in the country. By the end of the 18th century, the industry began to develop with rapid force, and in the 19th century the period of export of linen products to Europe flourished.
Flax production: a modern approach
which we receive from the manufacturer today is a valuable and quality material obtained from flax stalks.
- Plants are cut and left in the fields to soak with moisture or carefully soak for 8 days.
2. After drying, flax is kneaded and folded into compact coma. What initial appearance the flax fibers have, you can see in detail in the photo.
3. Then the flax is ruffled and combed, a detailed description of this process can be studied in the video below.
4. Soft and pliable fibers sent to the spinning machine, where linen thread is born
5. The threads go to the weaving shop, where linen fabric is spun from it.
6. The finished material is dyed, bleached or left in natural color.
And here is the promised video clip about how the popular Belarusian linen is born, which, along with domestic fabrics, is one of the highest quality textile materials in Europe.
Linen and its types
Depending on the degree of processing of linen fiber, linen fabric can have different characteristics.
- Fine fabrics are made from soft, perfectly combed fiber. Such material is used in the production of clothing and underwear, bedding and textiles. Guests for goods made of linen fabrics are also different.
- Production of coarser flax fibers (tow) occurs according to different standards than for fine types of flax. A roll of coarse linen fabric is used in the production of burlap, canvas and floor runners.
- In addition, there is absolutely no waste in this industry. Yarn residues, poor-quality pieces of fibers used in the production of fuel, insulation, packaging and flooring.
Features, advantages and disadvantages of linen fabric
Linen is a unique material with valuable and unique properties.
Pure linen, linen and semi-linen fabrics. Determination of grade, GOST 357-75
Classifier State Standards. GOST 357-75: Pure linen, linen and semi-linen fabrics. Definition of sorting. KGS: Textile and leather materials and products, Fabrics from bast fibers and piece goods. GOSTs. Pure linen, linen and semi-linen fabrics. .... class=text>
GOST 357-75
Pure linen, linen and semi-linen fabrics. Determination of grade
GOST 357-75
Group M79
INTERSTATE STANDARD
FABRICS
Determination of grade
All-linen, linen and half-linen fabrics.
Determination of grade
OKP 83 0000
Introduction date 1977-01-01
INFORMATION DATA
1. DESIGNED AND INTRODUCED by the Ministry light industry of the USSR
2. APPROVED AND INTRODUCED BY Decree State Committee standards of the Council of Ministers of the USSR dated 23.01.75 N 148
3. REPLACE GOST 357-60
4. REFERENCE REGULATIONS AND TECHNICAL DOCUMENTS
5. The limitation of the validity period was removed according to protocol No. 3-93 of the Interstate Council for Standardization, Metrology and Certification (IUS 5-6-93)
6. EDITION (April 2002) with Amendments No. 1, 2, 3 approved in April 1981, June 1986, September 1988 (IUS 7-81, 9-86, 12-88)
This standard applies to ready-made and raw pure linen, linen and semi-linen fabrics for household and technical purposes and establishes the definition of their grade. The standard does not apply to decorative (drape) fabrics.
1. GENERAL PROVISIONS
1. GENERAL PROVISIONS
1.1. In terms of artistic and aesthetic indicators, fabrics must comply with standard samples approved in accordance with the requirements of GOST 15.004 and GOST 15.007.
(Changed edition, Rev. N 3).
1.2. Two grades are installed on the fabric: 1 and 2nd.
1.3. The grade of fabric is determined by quality indicators and defects in appearance and is set according to the worst indicator.
(Changed edition, Rev. N 3).
2. EVALUATION OF THE FABRIC BY PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL INDICATORS
2.1. Fabrics of the 1st grade in terms of quality must meet the requirements established in the regulatory and technical documentation for a specific type of fabric.
(Changed edition, Rev. N 3).
2.2. For fabrics of the 2nd grade, deviations from the minimum norms of the 1st grade as a percentage are allowed, not more than:
- 1.5 - in width;
- 5.0 - by surface density;
- 2.0 - by the number of threads per 10 cm;
- 5.0 - for breaking load.
Plus tolerances for the specified quality indicators are not limited.
Note. For fabrics intended for the clothing industry, the permissible deviations in width should not be more than ± 1.5%.
3. EVALUATION OF THE FABRIC FOR THE PRESENCE OF DEFECTS IN APPEARANCE
3.1. To determine the grade by the presence of defects in the appearance of the fabric, depending on the purpose, they are divided into groups indicated in Table 1.
Table 1
Fabric group | Purpose |
1 - canteens | For tablecloths, napkins, etc. |
2 - underwear | For sheets, pillowcases, underwear and corsetry, etc. |
3 - towel | For personal and household towels, bath sheets and towels, etc. |
4 - clothes | For dresses, robes, suits, trousers, overshirts, etc. |
For bedspreads, furniture upholstery, mattresses and mattress toppers, walkways, covers, deck chairs, awnings, terraces, etc. |
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6 - applied and packaging | For painting, board, frame, packaging, etc. |
7 - technical | Canvases and fabrics for shelters, overalls, for hand protection, filtering, etc. |
(Changed edition, Rev. N 2, 3).
3.2. Defects in appearance are divided into local and widespread.
Fabric defects and their definitions - according to GOST 25506 and Appendix 2.
(Changed edition, Rev. N 2).
3.3. Assessment of local defects in appearance (admissible with limitation) is carried out in accordance with the requirements of Table 2.
table 2
Name of vices | The size of vices | Fabric group | Note |
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Thickened threads | From three to five times (up to four times in canvas for overalls) thickness with a total length of up to 2 m | With a total length of a defect of more than 2 m, it is considered as two, more than 4 m - for three, etc. |
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Thickening | From three to five times (up to four times in canvas for overalls) thickness up to 8 cm for every five defects per 1 m | In fabrics for laundry towels, these defects are not taken into account |
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3 to 5 threads | In the 2nd grade of clothing fabrics and canvases for overalls, more than 10 places of this defect per conditional area are not allowed |
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Blizny | In one thread with a total length of up to 20 cm | With a total length of a defect of more than 20 cm, it is considered as two, more than 40 cm - for three, etc. |
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In two threads with a total length of up to 10 cm | With a total length of a defect of more than 10 cm, it is considered two, more than 15 cm - three, etc. |
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spans | From half the width of the fabric to its full width for each defect | In checkered fabrics, a span of more than two colored threads in the 1st grade is not allowed. |
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Undercuts | With a density rarefaction of up to 20% per 1 cm (for packaging fabrics, the defect size is one thread per 1 cm) | In fabrics of the 1st grade, more than two defects are not allowed for canvases used for shelters and for overalls, and three defects for linen fabrics; in linen fabrics of the 2nd grade, more than six defects are not allowed |
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Doubles, cut | Total length up to 4 m | With a total length of a defect of more than 4 m, it is considered as two, more than 8 m - for three, etc. |
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Podpletiny, poorly run-in warp tear | Length no more than 1 cm | In the 2nd grade, more than three places of this defect per conditional area are not allowed. |
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For fabrics intended for the clothing industry, defects are not allowed. |
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Diving | In 2-3 threads for every 5 cm along the length of the fabric | ||||||||
Warp thread failure | In the form of individual brackets with a total length of 10 cm | With a total length of a defect of more than 10 cm, it is considered two, more than 20 cm - three, etc. |
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Serifs, folds that do not violate the integrity of the fabric | Regardless of size | In flax and lavsan fabrics for the clothing industry, these defects with a total length of more than 2 m per conditional area are not allowed |
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Knocks, puffs, slack | Regardless of size | ||||||||
Up to 2 cm long | In the 2nd grade of clothing fabrics and canvases for overalls, more than eight places of this defect per conditional area are not allowed |
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Different threads (oily, dirty and colored threads) | In the form of strokes from 3 to 5 cm long | With a defect length of more than 5 cm, it is considered two, more than 10 cm - three, etc. |
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Violation of weaving, spoiling the appearance | 1 cm along the length or width of the fabric | In jacquard fabrics of the 1st grade, this defect is not allowed |
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Local defects in dyeing and printing (pencil, zatask, unprinted places, sagging, etc.) | Area no more than 2.5 cm | In the 2nd grade of clothing fabrics, fabrics for underwear and corsetry, more than eight places are not allowed. |
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The edge is bent up to 0.8 cm, wavy, tightened, looped | Up to 2 m in fabric length | With a total length of a defect of more than 2 m, it is considered as two, more than 4 m - for three, etc. |
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Dissolved development | For each cross bar | ||||||||
Narrowing of the fabric more than 1 cm, but not less than the minimum width stipulated by the normative and technical documentation | Length up to 1 m | With a total length of a defect of more than 1 m, it is considered as 2, more than 3 m - for 3, etc. For fabrics intended for the clothing industry, a defect is not allowed. |
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rare place | If the total length of the defect is more than 2 cm, it is considered as 2, more than 3 cm - as 3, etc. For fabrics intended for the clothing industry, a defect is not allowed. |
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Note. The "+" sign means that the defect is taken into account when determining the variety; sign "-" - the defect is not taken into account when determining the variety; sign "0" - defect should not be allowed in fabrics of the 1st grade.
(Changed edition, Rev. N 1, 2, 3).
3.4. The number of local defects in appearance per conditional area of 30 m2 of fabric should not exceed:
for linen fabrics:
8 - for the 1st grade,
22 - for the 2nd grade;
for fabrics using combed yarn:
10 - for the 1st grade,
26 - for the 2nd grade.
For towel fabrics with a width of 50 cm or less, the number of local defects in appearance is recalculated for a conditional area of 20 m2.
(Changed edition, Rev. N 1).
3.5. The number of local defects in the appearance of tissues per conditional area of 30 m2 () is calculated by the formula
where - the actual number of defects on the measured piece;
- piece length, m;
- fabric width, cm.
The calculation is made to the first decimal place, followed by rounding to an integer.
The length of a piece of fabric with a conditional cut area of 30 m, depending on its width, is indicated in Appendix 1.
3.6. The following local defects in appearance are not allowed in fabrics:
thickened threads more than five times the thickness, in canvas for overalls more than four times the thickness;
thickening more than five times the thickness, in canvases for overalls more than four times the thickness;
gatherings of more than 5 threads, in canvas for overalls more than 4 threads;
knots and serifs that violate the integrity of the fabric;
holes, punctures, rubs, holes;
are close in three threads or more:
undercuts with a rarefaction of the fabric density of more than 20% per 1 cm (for packaging fabrics more than one thread per 1 cm);
underwires and detachment of the base - each defect larger than 1 cm;
stains larger than 2 cm and splashes * from the dye;
stripes (from different thicknesses and colors of warp and weft threads, from stopping dyeing, printing and other finishing production machines);
transverse bareness and a rare set of loops in terry fabrics - more than 5 cm;
torn edge;
contamination of the wrong side of the fabric (in printed fabrics, the penetration of the dye on the wrong side is not considered a defect);
non-space;
pads, non-painting;
tissue burn during singeing;
streak of paint on the ground.
________________
* Corresponds to the original. - Note.
Defects eliminated during finishing are not taken into account in harsh fabrics.
(Changed edition, Rev. N 2, 3).
3.7. Local defects in tissues intended for retail, listed in clause 3.6, are subject to cutout on textile company. The cut of the defect should be made in the entire width of the fabric along the line of the borders of the location of the defect. If the size of a gross defect does not exceed 2 cm along the length of the tissue, then an incision is made at the location of the defect.
In fabrics intended for the clothing industry and industrial processing, the defects listed in clause 3.6 are not cut out, but are marked at the beginning and end of the defect at the edge of the fabric with colored marks or the brand "B", which means a conditional cut. With a defect size of up to 2 cm inclusive, instead of a conditional cut, a conditional cut is made and marked with a single color mark or a “P” brand, which means a conditional cut.
The sections of the fabric marked with conditional cutouts are included in general measure piece and are evaluated depending on the size of a measured or weighted flap.
The number of conditional cuts or cuts must comply with the requirements of GOST 12453.
3.8. In fabrics of the 1st grade, the following appearance defects that are common throughout the piece of fabric are not allowed:
knobby;
fuzziness;
infestation with a bonfire;
knocked down drawing;
weft break;
corrugation;
zebra;
stripes on warp and weft;
variegation;
layings;
skew pattern and fabric - from 2 to 5% (except for packaging fabrics);
raster;
unprinted places.
Notes:
1. For paraffin-treated canvases, color variation is not considered a defect.
2. For technical fabrics (except for canvas and workwear fabrics), applied and packaging fabrics, corrugation, zebrism, stripes on the warp and weft, different shades, knobby (except for applied fabrics of the military assortment and fabrics for hand protection and painting), fuzziness (except for applied fabrics of the military range and fabrics for hand protection and painting), weediness with fire (except for fabrics for hand protection and painting) is not considered a defect.
The skew of the pattern and canvas is determined according to GOST 14067.
In fabrics of the 2nd grade for underwear and corset linen, the defect of contamination with a fire is not allowed.
If there is a widespread defect in the fabric of the 2nd grade, the number of local defects per conditional area should not be more than 17 for fabrics made from linen yarn and not more than 21 for fabrics using tow yarn.
The degree of severity of common defects in appearance is established by reference samples of defects approved by agreement between the manufacturer and the consumer.
3.9. The presence of defects in appearance is determined by viewing the fabric from the front side at a distance of 1 m from the surface of the fabric in reflected light on a sorting table or machine.
In disputable cases, tissue viewing is carried out in natural light.
Defects in appearance, not listed in Table 2 and Clause 3.8, are equated to similar ones when assessed.
Faults located on the edge are taken into account only for table, linen, towel and bedspread fabrics.
Punctures along the edges are not considered defects.
3.7-3.9. (Changed edition, Rev. N 1, 3).
APPENDIX 1 (informative). LENGTH OF A PIECE OF FABRIC OF THE CONDITIONAL CUT AREA DEPENDING ON THE WIDTH
ANNEX 1
Reference
Fabric width, cm | The length of a piece of fabric with a conditional cut area, m | Fabric width, cm | The length of a piece of fabric with a conditional area of 30 m |
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