The desire to open a business and work exclusively for themselves arises in many people, but not all of them begin to implement it. There can be many reasons for such timidity, but the main one is the inability to choose promising industry. In our opinion, this should be guided by the demand for the product or service that you want to produce or offer. For example, shampoo is a means of mass consumption. All people wash their hair and will wash it in the future. So why not organize a business if there is already a ready-made and well-established technology for the production of shampoos? Let's try to figure out what nuances this kind of entrepreneurship can have.
Components
Shampoo production cannot be started without a good recipe.
Among the main components of this product, it is worth highlighting:
- water (makes up 70-75% of the total shampoo);
- surface active agents (surfactants), which are necessary to remove dirt and grease. They make up about 20-25% of the total ingredients. Most often, sodium or ammonium lacryl sulfates are used as surfactants in the production of shampoos;
- detergents for the formation of foam and thickening of the shampoo;
- emollients to thicken the structure and make the hair soft;
- alcohols;
- waxes;
- additives;
- flavors.
Of course, this list of components is not exhaustive. We have included it only so that you can get a basic idea of the quantity and type of raw materials for shampoo. In each case, the amount and type of ingredients used may differ. This is not surprising, because they are like shampoos. general use, and, for example, medicinal.
Production technology
Let's say you already have a recipe and purchased the components on the basis of which this recipe will be implemented. What's next? First of all, it is necessary to carry out quality control of the initial ingredients and complete water purification.
The production process itself begins with the supply of a mixture of alcohols and water to a special reactor, the subsequent addition of surfactants and the start of mixing. All other components are added gradually. Flavors and preservatives are added last. The finished product must be pumped out with a pump into a container designed for settling. It is from it that the analysis for quality control will be taken. If all the parameters and characteristics of the received product fully comply with technical standards, then you can start packaging the shampoo and sticking labels.
What equipment is needed?
Opening own production shampoo requires the following equipment:
- receiving and intermediate tanks;
- reactor with stirrer;
- rotary pump;
- shampoo dosing machine;
- labeling machine.
Particular attention must be paid to the choice of mixing device, since the quality of the final product depends on it.
Conventional mixing methods, when adding individual components, are not able to ensure a stable state of the resulting mixture, which is expressed in its stratification.
company GlobeCore designed that work based on the application of the injection method and hydrodynamic impact. This combination makes it possible to obtain high-quality shampoos. The produced product is characterized by increased stability and does not exfoliate for a long time.
Modern hydrodynamic (in-line) mixing plants have proven themselves in industrial operation as economical, accurate and stable means of producing shampoos with optimal cost. Achieved cost savings and increased profitability of production compared to traditional technology Mixing components in mixing tanks can accelerate the rate of return on investment by up to 60% per year and provide a return on the project for a period of up to one year or less.
The hydrodynamic mixer uses a mixing process that simultaneously feeds all components in a given recipe ratio into a common mixing manifold, through which the finished product is fed into a storage tank. The advantages of this technology are precise control of the dosing of each component, a significant reduction in the duration of the mixing cycle and the elimination of the use of mixing tanks to ensure the homogenization of the finished product. During the mixing process in an in-line mixer, the flow rate of each component is constantly adjusted in order to provide a finished product with stable quality indicators at the outlet of the mixing manifold according to a given recipe.
In conclusion, we note that to speed up the return of folded financial resources can also be achieved by using the same equipment to obtain liquid soap, toothpaste, cosmetic creams, etc.
Preparation of raw materials. Raw materials received at the warehouse, before being used in production, must be subjected to external inspection and laboratory analysis for compliance with the requirements stipulated by this technology, after which it is fed to the reactor for unloading.
Means preparation. Shampoos are prepared by mechanical mixing of the components with water in a reactor equipped with a stirrer. The use of a specially designed agitator prevents foaming of the mass. The components are mixed at a temperature production premises and atmospheric pressure.
Water-alcohol extract and surfactant are sequentially loaded into the reactor with the stirrer turned on, which are then mixed.
Drinking water undergoes purification at the water treatment complex and is fed into the reactor with the mixer turned off. A sample of this water is preliminarily taken for compliance with the requirements for the quality of water for the preparation of shampoos. The water supply is controlled by a water meter. Next, the components of the shampoo are mixed with water.
Formalin and fragrance are added. Next, with the mixer turned off, a pre-prepared sodium chloride solution is poured using a pump and mixed. The finished product with the help of a pump is fed into the intermediate tank for settling. The product is settled, after which a sample is taken and an analysis is made for compliance specifications, and upon receipt of positive results, the product is sent for packaging.
Modern shampoos are mostly multifunctional and their recipes can contain from 10 to 15 ingredients or more. These include basic surfactants, thickeners (viscosity regulators), emulsifiers and emulsion stabilizers, complexing agents (water hardness regulators), foam concentrates and foam stabilizers, conditioners, colorants, fragrances, preservatives and other functional additives.
According to the definition of shampoos, they are homogeneous single-phase or multi-phase liquids with a gel - or creamy mass without foreign impurities. According to the state of aggregation, these are coarsely dispersed systems of the emulsion class. Most emulsions belong to the direct type of oil-in-water dispersions with a low content of the dispersed "oil" phase. When preparing emulsions, the aqueous and oil phases must be dispersed one into the other. For the dispersion of shampoos, mechanical mixing of liquids using paddle and propeller mixers is most widely used (Figure 6).
Figure 6. Paddle mixers
1. Preparation of the aqueous phase
The aqueous phase of shampoo emulsions, in addition to water as a solvent, contains water-soluble ingredients: thickeners, softeners, moisturizers, basic surfactants, electrolytes. Most of them are added to the water initially, and only a small amount during mixing with the oil phase and finishing the finished shampoo emulsion to the desired condition.
process water
According to the regulatory documentation for washing hygienic cosmetic products in shampoos, it is allowed to use water for household needs, demineralized and deionized, as a process water as a solvent. Traditionally, household water is used with the addition of sequestrants. These substances prevent the formation of an insoluble precipitate of salts of polyvalent metals Ca, Mg, Fe and others contained in water and at the same time lower the hardness of water by binding sequestrants with cations Ca 2+ , Mg 2+ , Fe 2+ into complex compounds.
Of the sequestrant substances in shampoos, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (ETDA) and crystalline hydrates of its disodium salt (Trilon B) are most often used.
Acid-base balance.
According to the ND, the pH value in shampoos should be in the range from 5.0 to 8.5. As a regulator of pH values in shampoos, citric acid and caustic soda are mainly used. The bulk of citric acid is introduced into the water immediately after its dosage in order to create an acidic environment in it, which ensures a high dissolution rate of many ingredients without heating the aqueous phase, and also excludes the hydrolysis of alkylolamides with the release of ammonia. Caustic soda is introduced into the aqueous phase at the end of its preparation in order to bring the pH to a predetermined value.
thickening
According to technical requirements to shampoos, their consistency with a gel or creamy mass can vary from liquid to thick. Most of the thickeners (80% of their mass) are introduced into the aqueous part initially during its preparation, the remaining part is added to the finished emulsion when it is brought to the desired viscosity.
Alkyl amides, polymeric materials, and electrolytes are used as thickeners. When alkyl amides and electrolytes are added, the viscosity of an aqueous solution of surfactants changes due to the aggregative transformation of micelles into more complex geometric shapes, which increases the stress of internal friction and viscosity, and thereby provides the effect of thickening shampoos. Alkylolamides are introduced into the shampoo at the stage of formation of the aqueous phase, and electrolytes are added to the final composition of the shampoo in order to adjust the viscosity and improve compatibility.
When adding polymer materials(water-soluble polymers, ethoxylated polyhydric alcohols with a polyol chain). The thickening effect is based on their ability to spontaneously form dispersed systems such as jellies with a spatial grid - a framework of polymer chains with a two-dimensional or three-dimensional lattice.
haze and opalescence
Most shampoos are made opaque and have a pearlescent or opal look. Their opacity is created by introducing substances into them - opacifiers. As the latter, salts of fatty acids C 16 -C 18 (palmitates and stearates of magnesium and zinc), alkylolamides and glycerides of fatty acids, esters of ethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol (mono- and diethylene glycol monostearates), monoalkyl esters of fatty acids are used.
The mother-of-pearl effect is due to a change in the optical properties of the crystals, which partly reflect and partly refract the incident light. Different stearate crystals create different pearl effect. The pearlescent effect is also affected by the length of the alkyl group of alkylolamides: for example, coconut diethanolamide gives less shine, while lauric monoisopropanolamide has more shine. The degree of turbidity and the level of gloss are significantly affected by the magnitude of the shear rate when mixed with the aqueous phase and temperature. At high shear rates, a high degree of haze and a low level of gloss is obtained, and, conversely, at low shear rates, haze decreases and gloss increases.
Introduction of basic and auxiliary surfactants.
In the production of shampoos, sodium and ammonium salts of sulfoesters of fatty alcohols (mainly C 12 lauryl alcohol and a mixture of C 12 -C 14 fatty alcohols of coconut oil) are mainly used as base surfactants: alkyl sulfates and alkyl ethoxy sulfates with a degree of oxyethylation from 2 to 3, sulfates of mono- and triethanolamides of lauric acid and a mixture of fatty acids of coconut oil.
The concentration of basic surfactants in shampoos is determined by their formulation and consumer properties and is (wt%): in cleansing foaming shampoos from 5 to 27, and in multifunctional conditioning shampoos from 7 to 30. All of the listed surfactants are anionic and readily soluble in water (with the exception of lauryl ethoxy sulfate ).
When preparing the aqueous phase, the base surfactants are first dissolved in pure process water. The mass of this water is equal to the difference between the total mass introduced into the shampoo as a solvent according to the recipe and the mass of water consumed at the stage of thickening and turbidity, as well as in the preparation of a sodium hydroxide solution for adjusting the pH in the acid-base balance of the aqueous phase. On average, this amount of water is 50% of its total mass.
Auxiliary surfactants are introduced into shampoos to enhance foaming and improve the quality of the foam (more creamy and thicker), to impart dermatological softness to the formulation (reduce skin and eye irritation), as well as to increase the viscosity of the shampoo. As auxiliary surfactants, amphoteric surfactants are used: cocamidopropyl betaines, cocamphocarboxyglycinates, lauryl (C 12) - myristyl (C 14) - and cocdimethylamine oxides, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine oxides, decyl-, undecyl- and cocpolyglucosides. They are highly soluble in water and for cleansing foaming shampoos that do not contain an oil phase, they are introduced into the aqueous phase together with base surfactants.
Other substances
These include ingredients that improve functional and consumer properties. These can be emulsifiers, emulsion and foam stabilizers, solubilizers, preservatives, moisturizers, useful additives that determine the type of shampoo.
2. Preparation of the oil phase
The oil phase contains water-insoluble ingredients: dyes, fragrances, conditioners, preservatives, emollients, useful additives. Some of these substances may be water-soluble, but within the framework of the technology for the manufacture of shampoos, especially multifunctional conditioning ones, it is advisable to introduce them into the oil phase.
Depending on the composition and physico-chemical properties of the ingredients, the oil phase is prepared either in parts. Or completely with simultaneous loading. During the loading of the ingredients into the phase, it is continuously stirred until a homogeneous mass is obtained and, if necessary, heated to a temperature of 75-80? C to increase the dissolution rate. The finished oil phase is added to the aqueous phase with continuous stirring.
3. Adjustment of the viscosity and acid-base balance of the shampoo
The viscosity of most shampoos is adjusted by adding NaCl saline to them. The pH value is adjusted by adding sodium hydroxide solution NaOH and citric acid to the shampoo.
4. Process plant
The technological process of shampoo production includes the stages of weighing and dosing ingredients, their loading and mixing, heating and cooling of phases, and their pumping, analysis of intermediate mixtures and the final product, finishing the finished product to a given condition (pH of the medium, viscosity, density, appearance and color) and pumping it into a storage container with subsequent packaging.
Figure 7. Schematic diagram of the design of a high-efficiency double circulation mixer.
To carry out these stages, the technological installation must include: mixers, pumps, measuring tanks and dispensers, feeders, heaters / coolers, analyzers, valves.
Depending on the production plant, the working volume of the mixers ranges from 50 to 6000 liters. As mixing devices in mixers, paddle, propeller (Figure 8) and anchor-scraper mixers equipped with stationary breakwaters are used.
Modern mixers (Figure 7) are additionally equipped with an autonomous washing system that cleans the device from the previous mixture after pumping out.
Figure 8. Propeller agitator.
Figure 9. Shampoo production reactor.
Figure 10. Vacuum-homogenizing apparatus for cooking
cosmetic
Figure 11. Block diagram of the process unit for the production of shampoos
Apparatus-mixers for the preparation of: aqueous phase (1), aqueous NaOH solution (2), oil phase (3.4), shampoo (5).
WHAT IS THE ARTICLE ABOUT?
What is shampoo
Shampoo is the most popular hair care product. Its main task is to cleanse. But besides this, it can perform a number of additional ones:
- Prevents static electricity from appearing;
- Cares for the scalp;
- Protects from the sun, cold, high humidity and other factors;
- Makes hair stronger.
Shampoo is not only in liquid form, as we are used to seeing it. Also exist:
- Gels;
- cream;
- Aerosols;
- In the form of a powder;
The most common are gel and liquid forms due to their convenience.
Back to additional features. Depending on the ingredients that make up the products on the market are:
- With a healing effect;
- Ordinary cosmetic;
- With careful care;
- Baby;
- For various types hair and scalp;
Shampoo composition
To make the most common cosmetic shampoo, 12 components must be mixed at the factory:
How shampoo is made in production
The technical process consists in mixing all the ingredients. To prepare shampoos, each ingredient is weighed on special scales. The mass must exactly match the cooking sheet, that is, the recipe. Then all substances are mixed together. Some of the components are immersed in a boiler and boiled at a temperature of 60 degrees. The ingredients are mixed until smooth, and then cooled to 35-40 degrees.
Quality control is carried out in 2 stages. First, the laboratory assistant takes a small amount of shampoo directly from the cauldron and tests it for viscosity and foaming ability. It should be noted that the buyer judges the quality of the shampoo by the presence of a large amount of foam on his head, although this is far from a key indicator.
The second check - and the presence of yeast and bacteria occurs after the shampoo is poured from the boiler into specially prepared barrels. They are sealed inside. Microbiological analysis is carried out in the laboratory using special wipes.
First, a 10% solution of the finished product is made, stirred, and the laboratory assistant draws 1 ml into the pipette. the resulting liquid, and then drips it on napkins. Then he puts them in a heating cabinet for three days, and only after this period you can understand how high-quality and safe the product is. If the wipes are clean and free of fungal growths, then you can give permission for bottling.
After the checks, the shampoo cooled in barrels is brought to the filling machine. And here it is - the final stage of the production process - packaging. in most factories it is made using an automatic bottling line. The machine dispenses the required amount into the container. Each manufacturer uses their own bottle options.
For example, when packaged in tubes, they pass through a special device - heating element, which heats the package with hot air in a couple of seconds and it is filled with shampoo. All irregularities are cut off from the container and a cap is put on. The finished tube is thrown onto the conveyor to the cartoning machine, where it is packed into a box.
How to make shampoo at home with your own hands
The first option for making shampoo at home is from clay. Choose the clay that best suits your hair type, although any healing clay will work on its own. The preparation process consists in dissolving clay in warm water to the state of liquid sour cream. The second option is mustard shampoo. It consists in diluting mustard in water. These substances are absorbent, so additional components can be added to provide some benefit to the hair, but not oils, since you will not be able to mix them.
The best option is to use a decoction of herbs or essential oils instead of water. But keep in mind that oils must be added to dry powder and only then poured with water.
The third recipe is to prepare dry shampoo with your own hands. To do this, use ordinary soda. Apply a small amount (in dry form) to the head, and then simply comb through. Hair will become cleaner and voluminous. But this method is more suitable for people with blond hair, as soda brightens a little.
Another shampoo recipe can be made from black bread. It must be poured with hot water and let it brew for about 15 minutes, after which you can wash your hair. You can add the yolk, but not in hot water because it will melt right away. Add it after your infusion has cooled.
There is also a mono-component shampoo that does not even need to be prepared - these are soap nuts. There are very good reviews about them and many people use them.
Home > MonographThe formulation and selection of raw materials must be carried out taking into account the requirements of the Guidelines for cosmetic products approved by the EEC (Directives EEC 76/768) and SanPiN 1.2.681-97 "Hygienic requirements for the production and safety of perfumery and cosmetic products". These documents contain lists of substances that are allowed, not allowed, and limitedly allowed for use in formulating cosmetics and, in particular, hair and scalp care products.
In modern cosmetics, more and more attention is paid to active additives - components that, in a relatively small amount, can significantly affect the properties of the finished product. However, in many cases, the introduction of active ingredients into the finished formulation is limited by their chemical nature: an unpleasant odor, low solubility, rapid degradation due to oxidation, sensitivity to UV radiation or water, and poor skin tolerance when applied at higher concentrations. In a number In some cases, antioxidants, complexing agents, and UV filters can improve the quality of the finished product by preventing it from oxidizing, discoloring, delamination, and the like. At the same time, it is more difficult to influence parameters such as the bioavailability of the active ingredient and the tolerance of the scalp and hair to it, since they largely depend on the formulation. When choosing a base, a cosmetics developer (unlike a pharmacist) is usually guided by other motives than increasing bioavailability active component. Consumer qualities of the finished product and its safety come to the fore here. It often happens that the selected base cannot protect the active compound from degradation, as a result of which it not only loses its biological activity, but, moreover, becomes toxic. When applied to the skin, the “unprotected” active compound comes into contact with air and quickly oxidizes or exposed to direct sunlight and destroyed by their action. Classical examples of such hypersensitive compounds are unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins A (retinol) and C (ascorbic acid). So, being oxidized at the site of unsaturated double bonds, unsaturated fatty acids contribute to the rapid deterioration of the product (its rancidity). When oxidized, vitamin C loses its antioxidant properties, and vitamin A can cause severe irritation. Encapsulation of active ingredients, i.e. enclosing them in a protective shell is considered as a promising solution to this problem. Microcapsules are, as a rule, spherical systems in which the active components are located in the core (core). The nucleus is surrounded by one or more shell layers. On modern market a wide range of materials for capsule shells is presented. Natural or synthetic polymers, such as collagen, alginate, chitosan, lactic acid, polycaprolactone, polyacrylates, and waxes, are most widely used. The effectiveness of microcapsules in the composition of the finished product largely depends on their behavior in the cosmetic base. In addition, it should be taken into account that encapsulation requires time and additional costs. So only those components whose encapsulation is dictated by necessity are worthy of being enclosed in a protective shell. 3.2 Technology for obtaining cosmetic detergents The preparation of shampoos belongs to the category of relatively simple industries. In general, a piece of equipment is a stainless steel apparatus equipped with a jacket for heating and cooling and a stirrer (for liquid and creamy shampoos, the stirrer is slightly different). It is important that all shampoos must pass mandatory tests. First, an assessment of organoleptic indicators ( appearance, consistency, color, smell), which are determined by sensory evaluation. Then, physical and chemical characteristics are examined, including safety indicators: the value of the pH value, mass fraction dry matter, foaming capacity, rheological characteristics (viscosity), heavy metal content, and also determine microbiological stability. Consumer properties of shampoo are studied on volunteers (volunteers). Particular attention is paid to the study of the toxicological properties of shampoos, and in last years Increasingly, in vitro methods are being used, which are used instead of testing on animals and on volunteers (in vivo).
1 - crane; 2 – mixer 4 t; 3 – mixer 10 t; 4 - water heating;
5 - water purification system; 6 - pump; 7 - filter; 8 – capacity 2 t;
9 - dispenser
Figure 3.1 - Technology system receiving shampoos
Technological process shampoo production (Figure 3.1) begins with the selection and verification of raw materials. They must be harmless in the concentrations administered and not form toxic combinations with each other. Shampoo ingredients must be compatible, balanced and stable at the specified pH value. First of all, you need to prepare the water, because. it is the main ingredient of the shampoo. Water must be purified from mechanical impurities, iron, softened and microbiologically neutralized. The content of heavy metals in water should not exceed the established norms. Surfactants must be prepared in advance, weighed, and in winter placed in a warm room to avoid their solidification, but at a temperature not exceeding 50 ° C to prevent their destruction. Basically, the shampoo preparation technology is the mixing and dissolution of the components. stages technological process Shampoos are as follows. Preparation of raw materials. Raw materials received at the warehouse, before being used in production, are necessarily subjected to external inspection and laboratory analysis for compliance with the requirements provided for by this technology, after which they are fed to the reactor for unloading. Means preparation. Shampoos are prepared by mechanical mixing of the components with water in a reactor equipped with a stirrer. The use of a specially designed agitator prevents foaming of the mass. Mixing of components is carried out at the temperature of the production room and atmospheric pressure. Water-alcohol extract and surfactant are sequentially loaded into the reactor with the stirrer turned on, which are then mixed. Drinking water is treated at the water treatment complex and is fed into the reactor with the agitator turned off. A sample of this water is preliminarily taken for compliance with the requirements for the quality of water for the preparation of shampoos. The water supply is controlled by a water meter. Next, the components of the shampoo are mixed with water. Formalin and fragrance are added. Next, with the mixer turned off, a pre-prepared sodium chloride solution is poured using a pump and mixed. The finished product with the help of a pump is fed into the intermediate tank for settling. The product is settled, after which a sample is taken and an analysis is made for compliance with the specifications, and if positive results are obtained, the product is sent for packaging. 3.3 Characteristics of raw materials for the production of care products behind the hair Modern shampoo is no longer just a specialized hair wash, but a complex composition that can perform three main tasks: remove impurities, remove static electricity from hair and protect the scalp. If a hair care product solves the first problem, it's just a shampoo, if the second is a conditioner, and the third is a hair mask. The combination, to one degree or another, of the last two properties will make the composition a balm-rinse, the first two - a shampoo-conditioner ("two in one"), and all three - a three-in-one shampoo. All raw materials used for the production of care products hair, can be divided: - into natural (animal or plant origin); - synthetic. The fruits of hybrid coconut palms (Figure 3.2) serve as raw materials for the production of many components of shampoos.Figure 3.2 - Hybrid coconut tree
most challenging task Shampoo chemists are faced with the problem of the compatibility of various components. Oil, as you know, can be an effective foam suppressor. But this means that the addition of such emollient components to shampoos must necessarily affect the quantity and quality of the foam, and therefore worsen the washing properties of the composition. To avoid this, so-called emulsifiers are introduced into the mixture - substances that can envelop fat droplets insoluble in water. The emulsifier microfilm prevents the oil from coming into direct contact with the surfactant and also prevents the shampoo from separating by preventing tiny globules of oil from merging with each other.More modern way combine the incompatible - the solubilization of components that are insoluble in water, that is, their translation into a soluble state with the help of special additives. The fact is that many surfactants form in water not true, but micellar solutions. This is due to the structural features of surfactant molecules, which have a polar head and a long uncharged tail - a hydrocarbon radical (R) C 12 -C 14 (Figure 3.3).D
Figure 3.3 - Structure
surfactant molecules
The tins interact with water molecules, and the tails tend to get closer to each other, as a result of which the correct conglomerates of molecules appear - micelles. If the surfactant concentration in the solution is not very high, micelles resemble balls, if it grows, the balls merge with each other, forming tubes ( figure 3.4). Micelles are formed due to electrostatic interactions of the polar heads of surfactant molecules with water molecules. Sometimes fat-like substances can “dissolve” inside such structures. M 
The microenvironment inside the balls and tubes is electrically neutral, and substances that are insoluble in water, such as oils, may well “dissolve” here. However, not all surfactant molecules are able to solubilize various additives equally well, and the emergence of products that are active in this regard has brought the production of shampoos to a completely different level.
Figure 3.4 - Mechanism of micellization
It is no less difficult to “reconcile” anionic substances with cationic ones in one vial. This became possible only after the invention of amphoteric and crypto-anionic surfactants. Crypto-anionic surfactants are a class of substances that combine the properties of anionic and nonionic surfactants. Molecules of such surfactants carry both a positive charge (mainly on nitrogen) and a negative charge. They form a bridge between the detergent molecule and the conditioning agent molecule, forming weak bonds with them, which allows the shampoo components to act more or less independently. So, surfactants are the basis for the production of hair washing products, auxiliary surfactants (cosurfactants) and thickeners are components removing impurities from the hair and scalp. Additionally, to solve other problems facing hair care products, they introduce: condensing additives, dyes, opacifiers, fragrances, vegetable oils, plant extracts, vitamins, preservatives. In total, the composition of shampoos includes several dozen substances. 3.3.1 Surfactants The main active principle of the shampoo are detergents- surfactants that cause foam when mixed with water and air. Detergent is the main "sense" component of the shampoo. On the label of any shampoo, the detergent is usually one of the first in the composition. Surfactants have the following properties:
reduce the surface tension between water and fat particles, thus facilitating the removal of these particles and dirt;
form foam;
form a suspension of dirt particles in the foam and prevent the re-settling of dirt on the hair;
stabilize other shampoo ingredients or keep them dissolved;
increase the viscosity of shampoos.
anionic surfactants - in an aqueous solution they decompose with the formation of negatively charged ions;
cationic surfactants - in an aqueous solution they decompose with the formation of positively charged ions;
amphoteric surfactants - in an aqueous solution, depending on the pH of the medium, they can exhibit cationic (in an acidic pH<7) или анионные свойства (в щелочной среде рН>7);
non-ionic surfactants - do not form ions in an aqueous solution.
Figure 3.5 - Classification of detergents
The washing action is provided mainly anionic surfactants. The molecule of anionic surfactants contains a water-soluble (hydrophilic) part, negatively charged, and a fat-soluble (hydrophobic), neutral part. The fat-soluble part of the molecule binds and envelops dirt particles and the secretion of the sebaceous glands. The water-soluble part of the molecule is oriented away from the hair, which carries a negative charge, as a result of which the dirt particles connected with the surfactant are rejected by the hair, dissolved in water and removed. Anionic detergents(surfactants containing negative ions) are the most common substances used in shampoos and washing gels. A typical representative of anionic surfactants are salts of alkyl ether sulfates, which are obtained by sulfation of ethoxylated higher fatty alcohols, followed by neutralization and the formation of sodium, less often magnesium, ammonium salts. More often than others, ethoxylated sodium lauryl sulfate is used - sodium laureth sulfate. Oxyethylated magnesium lauryl sulfate - magnesium laureth sulfate is used mainly in children's shampoos, because. he is the softest. Cationic surfactants in an aqueous solution, they decompose with the formation of positively charged ions, have a weak washing effect, but are well “attracted” to negatively charged hair (substantiality) and fix the bioadditives on the hair. Cationic surfactants (contain positive ions) are used less frequently and in high concentrations. Many of them cause irritation when in contact with the eyes. These include salts of quaternary ammonium compounds, cationic polymers, quaternized protein hydrolysates, plant polysaccharide derivatives, and others. Amphoteric surfactants(contain positive or negative ions depending on the pH value of the shampoo). Amphoteric surfactants are used in shampoos for damaged and dry hair. These include: alkylamidopropyl betaines, which are used in combination with anionic surfactants to obtain a mild detergent substance. Lately Increasingly, amphoteric imidazole derivatives of surfactants (cocoamphoacetate) are used in formulations, which, in combination with anionic surfactants, improve foaming ability and increase the safety of formulations. And in combination with cationic polymers, they enhance the positive effect of silicones and polymers on hair and skin. Nonionic surfactants used in shampoos to improve consistency, rheological characteristics, make hair silky and soft. More often than others, ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated castor oil, propylene glycol esters of high molecular weight fatty acids are used. Nonionic surfactants cause a less pronounced denaturing effect than anionic ones, but they have a greater penetrating ability into the skin. If you arrange all detergents in ascending order of their quality, then the list will look something like So: Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate(ammonium lauryl sulfate) - an anionic surfactant; Ammonium Laureth Sulfate(ammonium laureth sulfate) - an anionic surfactant; Sodium Lauryl Sulfate(sodium lauryl sulfate) - cationic surfactant; Sodium Laureth Sulfate(sodium laureth sulfate) - cationic surfactant; TEA Layril Sulfate(TEA lauryl sulfate) - an anionic surfactant; TEM Laureth Sulfate(TEA laureth sulfate) is an anionic surfactant. Thus, the last three surfactants are the best. In terms of foaming ability, laureth sulfate still has no competitors, but its foam is loose and unstable. Only non-ethoxylated lauryl sulfate could compete with it, but this substance costs twice as much and is more irritating to the scalp. In small concentrations (about 1%), it is used in toothpastes, and it is rarely introduced into shampoo formulations if it is necessary to correct the properties of the finished product, and always together with laureth sulfate. However, if shampoos contain only one of the above detergents, in particular, laureth sulfate, then with frequent use of shampoo, the skin may become inflamed, and dandruff may appear. In addition, since laureth sulfate is obtained in the form of an aqueous solution with an active substance concentration of 5% to 15%, such a liquid component is very inconvenient for dosing. Therefore, in addition to the above detergents, any shampoo necessarily contains one or more "soft" surfactants that have a beneficial effect on properties of the finished product. Cosurfactant– it is an auxiliary surfactant that contributes to the creation of optimally balanced recipes. Cosurfactants such as cocoglycosides, alkyl ether carboxylates and others make it possible to obtain dermatologically mild shampoos with stable intense foam, which can be recommended not only for washing the hair, but also for the body. cosurfactant solve several problems at once. The main thing is to reduce irritation of the skin and mucous membranes of the eyes. The first cosurfactants were sodium laureth sulfosuccinates (anionic surfactants based on succinic acid). These substances have a mild cleansing effect and are good at reducing the dermatological harshness of the overall cleaning composition, even if they replace only a third or even a quarter of the laureth sulfate in the shampoo. Sulfosuccinates are still included in some “no tears” baby shampoos. Over the past 40 years, chemists have synthesized many mild cosurfactants, but the price of any of them exceeds the cost of the main detergent, as a rule, by two to three times. The search for soft surfactants continues all the time . Immediately after sulfosuccinates in shampoos, including children's shampoos, sodium cocoamphodiacetates (BETADET THC-2) appeared, which have good dermatological properties. But the real breakthrough in hair washes has been with betaines (or cocoamidopropyl betaines). – BETADET HR-50K), which appeared in the early 70s. These substances do not just make shampoos softer: even a small addition of betaines can reduce the concentration of electrolytes in shampoos, since they themselves can thicken solutions of sodium laureth sulfate. In addition, compared to sulfosuccinates and cocoamphodiacetates, betaines are much more physically stable. If the former, during long-term storage or a decrease in temperature, can precipitate and make the finished product cloudy, and the latter sometimes give shampoos an undesirable yellowish tint, then shampoos with new generation betaines (the so-called sulfobetaines) can be stored even at low temperatures. Such solutions do not become cloudy down to minus 10 °C. From cryptoanionic surfactants the most widely used alkyl ether carboxylate. He provides increased efficiency cationic conditioning agents, reduces irritant action, increases foaming. Phosphates and ether carboxylates are used in cosmetic products as dispersants, emulsifiers, solubilizers. 3.3.2 Conditioners Due to the transition of part of the sebum into the soapy solution, a small negative charge remains on the hair, which it is desirable to neutralize. For this purpose, conditioning compositions are used, the main components of which are cationic active substances and cationic polymers. Adsorbing on the hair, they remove the charge from them, make them softer and more manageable. Conditioning agents are designed to perform the following functions:removing static electricity, reducing the "flying" of hair;
smoothing and leveling damaged areas of hair shafts;
easy combing of wet and dry hair;
minimizing porosity;
giving hair shine and silkiness;
providing protection against thermal and mechanical damage;
moisturizing;
increase in volume and mass;
reconditioning of damaged hair.
At the same time, it is known that with the correct selection of a combination of surfactants, it is possible to obtain the required viscosity with a lower content of thickeners. Polymers are used as thickeners: polyvinylpyrrolidone, structured copolymers of acrylates, etc. The role of thickeners can be performed by modified glyceryl esters of fatty acids, derivatives of plant polysaccharides, as well as some cationic polymers. Often sodium chloride or sodium citrate (2–4%) is used as a thickener. However, sodium chloride can reduce the adsorption of the cationic polymer on the hair and thus prevent the conditioning effect. In addition, if you wash your hair poorly, salt will remain on the scalp, which will also contribute to irritation. Multifunctional additives such as coconut oil fatty acid diethanolamides can also be used as a thickener. Such an additive, in addition, increases the frost resistance of the product, protects the skin from degreasing when washing, allowing it to maintain its natural water-lipophilic balance. These substances have other advantages: for example, they stabilize the foam and allow various dispersed additives to be introduced into shampoos without the risk that the mixture will delaminate.
Shampoos are foaming preparations for washing the scalp and hair in order to remove dirt, dust, grease and dead skin cells.
Shampoo is currently one of the most used cosmetics . Shampoo is not only a hygiene product, but also a hair care product. The consumer expects additional properties from the use of this product, for example, the absence of irritation after application of the product, the presence of conditioning properties, such as the removal of static electricity, easy combing of hair, giving shine to hair, providing protection against damage (thermal and mechanical), increase in hair volume. The presence of biologically active components and aesthetic additives is also important. These shampoos are presented with rather harsh quality, safety requirements , efficiency. Products must have a balanced composition that has the properties of protection against exposure external environment and contributing to the restoration of the structure of damaged hair.
The production of hair shampoo has received massive development about 50 years ago. At this time, a very effective surfactant called sodium laureth sulfate, made from coconut oil, was invented.
In the production of shampoos, you can use the same equipment that is used for the manufacture of other types of cosmetic products.
The production process of shampoos consists of several stages:
Preparation of raw materials;
Shampoo production;
Shampoo composition
The production of shampoo begins with the development of a recipe. Each component that is part of the shampoo has its own purpose.
Classical methods of making shampoos involve the use of water as the main component, which makes up 70 - 75% of the shampoo. In the Russian Federation, the cosmetic industry uses drinking water that meets the requirements of SanPiN 2.1.4.1074-01. Such water must be prepared, purified, softened and neutralized. However, water can be completely replaced with herbal extracts. The company "KorolevPharm" has developed, implemented and successfully applied a technology for the production of shampoos based only on extracts obtained using electropulse plasma-dynamic extraction. This is especially important for children's products. This allows you to give the product certain properties. As you know, extracts have the ability to penetrate into the upper layers of the skin, while providing various effects, for example, softening, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory or antibacterial, soothing, therapeutic and prophylactic. Useful substances contained in the extracts themselves, allow you to give the product certain properties. And also extracts give shampoos various aromas and colors, which, in turn, allows you not to introduce dyes and fragrances into the composition.
- Surfactants (abbreviated name of surfactants). One of the commonly used is sodium laureth sulfate, which belongs to an anionic surfactant and is responsible for the washing action of the shampoo, effective removal dirt from hair. The content of anionic surfactants is 5-15%.
Cosurfactant co-surfactants, such as betaines, which provide shampoo properties that improve shampoo quality (e.g., foaming power), soften the formulation and increase the harmlessness of the shampoo, improve dermatological characteristics, and also reduce the amount of salt that is added to thicken the shampoo.
Conditioning and softening additives such as polyquaternium.
Ingredients that provide shine to the hair, promote easy combing (silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone).
Additives that moisturize hair and give it shine (various oils, panthenol).
Some waxes that improve the appearance of the shampoo (for example, stearate).
- Special additives of various directions depending on the declared effect (herbal extracts, proteins, keratin, vitamins, etc.).
Fragrances, essential oils, preservatives.
Shampoo production, technology
Shampoo production consists in dissolving and mixing shampoo components in water in a mixing reactor. The required amount of water is supplied to the reactor in accordance with technological map, the agitators and boiler heating are switched on. The contents of the boilers are heated to a temperature of 55-60 o C. To soften the water, various complexing agents and softeners are added, for example, disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid EDTA. Anionic surfactant is loaded and stirring is continued until it is completely dissolved and there is a homogeneous transparent mass in the reactor. In this case, such agitators and the speed of their rotation are used so as not to cause strong foaming of the contents of the boiler.
After that, the boilers are cooled to a temperature of 40-45 ° C. At this time, the remaining components of the shampoo are introduced in accordance with the recipe. Upon reaching a temperature of 35-40 ° C, preservatives and fragrances are introduced. After the introduction of each component, mixing continues until the complete dissolution of the substances introduced. The finished shampoo is unloaded by means of pumps into a settling tank. Each shampoo brewing passes the stage of control in terms of quality and safety for compliance established requirements. Such requirements are established in the specification for the finished product. Only after confirmation of compliance, cooking is allowed for packing and packaging.
Packing
Shampoos are most often bottled in plastic bottles, which, on the one hand, ensure the safety of the product and, on the other hand, have an attractive and harmonious appearance.
Shampoos Russian production are produced in accordance with the requirements of TR TS 009/2011, which regulates product safety requirements. In addition, the quality indicators of shampoos are established in GOST 31696-2012 “Cosmetic hygienic washing products. General technical conditions".
Shampoo making equipment
The shampoo production line usually includes the following equipment:
Reactors with the possibility of heating and cooling, equipped with agitators;
Transfer pumps;
Containers (tare) for settling and storing shampoo;
Product filling and dosing device;
Bottle labeling device.
Shampoos for children
A special place in the production of cosmetics is occupied by the production of cosmetics for children, including children's shampoos. Such products should have an exceptionally mild detergent effect. The composition should not have very active dietary supplements, prohibited preservatives, dyes, do not irritate the scalp and eyes, and be hypoallergenic. All these advantages have a series of cosmetics for Magic Herbs, which is made on the basis of extracts of medicinal plants.
